How to Transplant a Burning Bush to Another Residence
Brilliant red fall colour, attractive stems and purple and red fruit create burning bush (Euonymus alatus) difficult to leave behind at a move. Luckily, this shrub transplants readily. Hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, burning bush adapts well to varied states and recovers quickly. Categorized as dangerous in certain areas, cutting bush’s dense, fibrous root system can crowd out native plants, however those extensive, shallow roots also ease transplant alterations. An ideal transfer to a different residence includes advance preparation and safety throughout the move.
Timing a Go
Moves don’t always coincide with the best time for transplanting shrubs. When possible, benefit from optimal timing and limitation plant stress. Though dwarf varieties stay smaller, standard burning bushes average 9 feet tall and often reach 15 feet or more in height. Smaller, younger and less-established shrubs tend to be easier to maneuver than older, larger shrubs. They also adapt to new locations more easily. Transplanting a proven burning bush in fall gives roots the chance to settle in during moderate winter weather. Spring transplanting allows little time to become established before summer’s rigors hit.
Preparing the Bush
Using its fibrous, shallow roots, burning bush transplants more readily than shrubs with deep or large roots which resent disturbance. Nevertheless, try to limit interference. When possible, prepare by pruning the roots ahead of time. In Mediterranean-type climates, try this two to three months prior to the move. Draw a line about 10 to 15 inches away of the plant’s trunk. Then use a sharp spade to cut right down through the roots along the line. New roots will form in that circle. When moving, keep as much of that root ball intact as possible.
Preparing the New Blog
Get the tree’s new home ready beforehand, if at all possible. Choose a website suited to its needs. Burning bush tolerates all soil types — provided that they’re well drained — and prefers full sun to light shade. Prepare the hole ahead so the vomit time out of the ground is limited. Dig the hole two to three times as wide as the width of this root ball and slightly less heavy. Keep the bottom ground intact to encourage the transplanted bush slightly higher than the surrounding level. Roughen up the hole’s sides to help root growth. Leave the original dirt natural; don’t amend.
Making the Go
Water your bush two to three times prior to its move. When possible, work on a cloudy, wind-free day to restrict stress from sunlight or wind. Mark the plant’s north side, so you maintain the identical orientation. Follow the line established in root pruning because you dig the shrub. If you’re going on short notice, dig as big a ball as is sensible. Have help on hand because the weight of the dirt along with the bush is substantial. By way of example, a 4-foot shrub should maintain a root ball at least 16 inches in diameter and 12 inches deep, which weighs around 200 lbs. Slide the shrub on a tarp, burlap or plastic sheeting, and wrap the roots thoroughly. Place little burning bushes in temporary containers. Wrap a protective covering around the branches, too.
Replanting Your Bush
Load and unload carefully, so you don’t hurt the root ball. Confirm the ball when you transfer it; never to lift it by the trunk or drop it to the ground. Set the burning bush at the pre-dug hole, and fill in with original, unamended ground until it is about two-thirds complete. Don’t fertilize because this can damage roots. Firm the soil with your hands, and fill the hole with water. Let the hole empty, then fill in the remaining ground and water the bush. Monitor your watering carefully for the first season. Feel the dirt regularly for moisture, and make alterations. Keep the soil moist, but never soggy.